● B vitamins The most widely used are vitamin B3 (niacinamide) and vitamin B5 (panthenol). Niacin acts as a topical antiinflammatory and speeds cell turnover. Panthenol attracts water to the skin, making it appear smoother.

● Copper peptides These promote healing and act as a co-factor in collagen production.

● Retinoids/ vitamin A A class of fat-soluble vitamins that have the only clinically proven action accepted by dermatologists for the reduction of wrinkles and lines.

● Amino peptides They enhance cellular function and promote healing.

● Antioxidants Popularly called an insurance policy for your skin, antioxidants fight skin-damaging free radicals that can lead to premature ageing and even DNA degradation. The most widely used are green tea, grape seed extract, vitamin C, pomegranate and soy alpha-lipoic acid. Idebenone is the most powerful antioxidant used in cosmetics and is the main ingredient of Prevage ($250; from selected Myer stores) from Elizabeth Arden and Allergan, the maker of Botox.

● Anti-inflammatory botanicals Skin that is easily irritated benefits from the soothing qualities of botanical ingredients such as allantoin and aloe vera.