Central-East Australia road trip

Byron Bay, Pacific Hwy

After a brief spell as a timber and dairy port in the late 19th and early 20th century, Byron Bay entered a period of decline and remained a rural backwater until the 1980s, when it was discovered by incomers attracted to a burgeoning alternative-lifestyle culture and by tourists taken with its idyllic climate and unspoilt beaches. It has since blossomed into a major holiday resort and upmarket residential and retirement centre, gaining a fine array of restaurants, cafes, tour operators and galleries along the way, though the development has been relatively restrained and the town still retains its quirky, alternative air.

A chain of beaches runs east along the north side of the town to the foot of Cape Byron, named by Captain Cook in 1770 after Captain John Byron (grandfather of the poet). A walking track leads around and to the summit of the headland, site of the 1902 lighthouse, providing superlative views. South of the cape, broad Tallow Beach extends for 4 km to another promontory, Broken Head, and its eponymous nature reserve (Seven Mile Beach Rd, 02 6685 8565), where lush rainforest reaches right down to the shore.

Nambucca Heads, Pacific Hwy

Verdant ridges, clear waters and stunningly white sands frame this port and attractive holiday town, which has several fi ne reserves that are ideal for picnics and stretching your legs.

Stroll through the rainforest in Gordon Park (Wellington Dr), hike up to the headland to take in invigorating coastal views and the Historical Society Museum, or peruse the famous V-Wall breakwater on the seafront, where you are invited to leave your mark amid the abundant and colourful graffiti decorating the rocks. Cruises along the Nambucca River are also available, and there is a fi ne selection of cafes on Bowra Street.

Nambucca Heads, New South Wales

Myall Lakes National Park, Pacific Hwy

The park encompasses the state’s largest fresh- brackish lake system, made up of four major bodies of water, Myall Lake, The Broadwater, Two Mile Lake and Boolambayte Lake, as well as the surrounding swamp oak, paperbark and red gum forests and coastal scrub and beaches. A scenic drive links Bulahdelah and Hawks Nest (see entries) via Bombah Point, site of a ferry crossing, eco-resort, kiosk and picnic areas.

There’s a short rainforest walk at Mungo Brush, which forms part of the 21-km Mungo Track running south to Hawks Nest. Tracks off Mungo Brush Road access stunning stretches of white sand beaches backed by huge dunes.