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• Bairnsdale to Marlo

Bairnsdale to Marlo

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This journey through East Gippsland offers a scenic insight into one of Victoria’s most beautiful regions. There are rich, rolling farmlands, fascinating caves, dense eucalypt forests, stretching sandy beaches along an unblemished coast, and lakes and lagoons that teem with birds and, sometimes, boats.

Bairnsdale

This sizeable rural town spreads itself along the flats of the Mitchell River, near Lake King. The district was first settled by graziers in the early 1840s, and within 20 years Bairnsdale had become a vital trading centre and port, particularly for the goldfields at Omeo to the north. For many years steamers travelled here through Lake King and up the river, but after the railway reached the town in 1888, the river trade diminished dramatically. Today Bairnsdale relies on timber milling and agriculture, as well as income from a steady stream of tourists.

Mitchell River National Park, about 50 kilometres north-west of town, draws many visitors to its dense bushland and patches of rainforest that surround the gorges of the Mitchell River. In Bairnsdale itself, nature is close at hand at Macleod Morass, a deep freshwater marsh pierced by a short boardwalk. A strategically placed bird hide allows viewing of some of the many species of birds that nest here, including the straw-necked ibis, white ibis, grey teal, royal spoonbill and black swan.

>Man-made attractions include Bairnsdale’s unusual Court House; dating from 1893, it is adorned with gables and towers that are reminiscent of a French chateau. St Mary’s Catholic Church also has a European connection – its walls and ceiling were painted with religious scenes by an Italian artist in the 1930s. The Bairnsdale Historical Museum houses numerous artefacts and records of early life in the district. The heritage of the region’s Aboriginal people is featured at the Krowathunkooloong Keeping Place.

Lakes Entrance

On this next leg of the journey, a pause may be made at Kalimna and its lookout, which gives fine views of the lakes, Ninety Mile Beach and Bass Strait.

The drive enters Lakes Entrance, a much bigger and brasher holiday town than Metung. The settlement lies at the eastern extremity of the Gippsland Lakes between the channels of North Arm and Cunninghame Arm, and gets its name from the adjacent opening in the sand dunes, dug in the 1880s to create a navigable entry to the lakes. As with other lakes towns, a range of boat cruises is available. Lakes Entrance is also a major fishing centre, home to Australia’s largest commercial fleet, and visitors will find part of the catch on sale at the Bullock Island fishermen’s co-op.

For a tranquil contrast to the streets of this touristy town, cross the footbridge to Ninety Mile Beach. This narrow stretch of heath-backed sand dunes is a wild and windy place, perfect for long beachcombing walks. Board riders and body surfers will appreciate the outstanding waves.

ake Tyers Forest Park

About 11 kilometres from Lakes Entrance, Burnt Bridge Road leads off to the right from the highway to the picnic areas and walking tracks of Lake Tyers Forest Park. Hillsides cloaked with tall blue gums, Gippsland grey box trees and red ironbarks run down to this tranquil lake, which is popular with canoeists and anglers. Bordering on the park is the Lake Tyers Aboriginal Trust, established in 1971, private property and the site of Australia’s first formal government Aboriginal land grant.

Marlo

Continuing east after passing through the hamlet of Nowa Nowa, the drive runs through a scenic mix of forest and grazing land. Just after crossing the Snowy River, and almost within sight of Orbost, exit the highway onto Marlo Road. The route runs under the highway and then south, through grazing land beside the Snowy River, to the village of Marlo overlooking the river’s estuary.

Marlo is a quiet place, with sheltered waters ideal for swimming and other water sports; anglers can drop a line in river, estuary, lake or ocean. The slow-moving scene at the town jetty would have been very different in the nineteenth century when Marlo was a busy port, with paddle-steamers and schooners bringing passengers and goods bound for Orbost, and carrying away agricultural produce.