Food critics are rebelling against the latest food craze, deriding it as froth over substance

Invented by famed “molecular gastronomy” chef Ferran Adrià at his restaurant El Bulli in Spain, “foam” is essentially made by taking natural flavours, like fruit juices and savoury essences, mixing them with a gelling agent and piping the resulting foam out of a whipped cream canister. For example, “foamed mushroom”, “pea and white onion foam” or “parmesan air”.

The technique has initially been a hit with critics and customers, mainly because it gives food an unexpected contrast of flavour, texture and temperature. But a copycat craze is ensuing, with foams being served in venues from pub bistros to cafés with mixed results.

 “Don’t get me started on foams,” says The Sydney Morning Herald food critic Simon Thomsen. “They’re nothing more than cappuccino froth with delusions of grandeur, yet every chef with a Bamix [hand mixer] thinks they’re cutting-edge, making the plate look like the leftovers from receding surf.” You’ve been warned.