How to use a Router

Whether using the older style fixed base or the newer plunge type, routers are used for hollowing and shaping timber. Modern carbide cutters and guide bearings make them even easier to use.

Edge-forming router bits range from simple roundover or bevel bits to intricate cove, ogee and classical bits. Carbide edge-forming bits cost from $20, and router bits come with either a 6.35 or 12.7mm shank, sold in kits or as individual cutters.

Use it for...
Cut housings for shelves
Cut rebates into cabinet backs
Make mouldings for frames
Edge a table
Cut dovetails for drawer joints

Cut the ends first
If planning to rout the ends and sides of a board, do the ends first as the grain has a tendency to split out when the bit exits the end of the cut. The damaged areas are then removed when the sides are done.
Technique for rounding over door edges, chamfering shelf edges, rebating the end-grain for furniture joints.

Move the right way
When holding the router and looking down on it, the bits spin clockwise, so moving it around the board counterclockwise pulls the pilot bearing tight against the timber for good control and a steady cut. When routing inside something such as a picture frame move the router in a clockwise direction, because of the reverse position.
Technique for table edges and drawer fronts, rounding stair tread edges and edging infill panels.

Secure narrow strips
Clamps tend to obstruct the router when working on narrow strips of timber. The solution is to secure blocks to the workbench around the strip. Screw an offcut of equal thickness behind the long edge and add a thinner stop-block at the end. For a thin piece of timber the bearing extends below, so position the timber 10mm over the edge of the workbench so the bit doesn’t hit it.
Technique for cutting rebates along timber edges, rounding over edges on window sills and beading trim around a bookcase.

Make mouldings
First rout the profi le on a wide board then make the moulding by cutting the shaped edge from the wide board with a tablesaw, repeating to cut more mouldings until the remaining board is too narrow to work with.
Technique for moulding out door panels, trimming bookcase surrounds, architraves and skirting.

Hold pieces with hot glue
Elevate a project to give clearance for the router bearing. First secure a timber offcut smaller than the piece being routed to the workbench then apply half a teaspoon of hot glue and press on the project. Leave it to cool then rout the edge. When fi nished, twist the piece to break it free, scraping the glue with a chisel or putty knife.
Technique for edging teapot stands, clock faces, serving platters and kitchen cutting boards.

Take it easy
Make deep-profile cuts in two or three shallow passes to avoid burns. Set the depth for a shallow cut to rout all the sides, then adjust for a deeper cut and repeat the process.

Top techniques
Sand eges first so the guide bearing rides on a smooth surface and doesn’t leave bumps.
Be firm and press the base tight to the timber to prevent the router from tipping.
Out with the old steel bits, replacing them with modern carbide bits that last longer and make easier, cleaner cuts.

Download the Buyer's guide to plunge routers