Smoothing concrete Photo:

 
Forming and pouring a large concrete slab can be intimidating as any mistake can turn it into a mess and be literally cast in stone. If you have never worked with concrete, start with a small footpath or shed floor before trying a garage-sized slab like this. Even if you have a few small jobs under your belt, it’s good to find an experienced concrete finisher to help.

Good foundations
The bulk of the work for a new slab is in the excavation and formwork. To level a sloped site or bring in a lot of fill, hire an excavator or a skid steer loader for a day. Count on taking a day to build the formwork and one to pour the slab. Concrete shrinks as it ages, so it’s vital to include control joints. Slabs larger than 3m2 need steel mesh reinforcement, and the maximum permissible distance between joints is 6m.

Up to standard
To make sure the slab is all above board check with the council and the BCA Housing Provisions for concrete construction, make sure termite treatment meets Australian Standard 3660, fully compact fill under the slab and have the compaction certified, and be sure the design meets soil classification for your area. Divert surface and seepage water away from the slab, ensure waterproof membrane has a minimum thickness of 0.2mm and have the membrane and reinforcement inspected before pouring the concrete. Also check with the council on the distance from ground level to the top of the slab height.

Safety First
Wet concrete on skin can cause a reaction – from mild redness to third-degree chemical burns. Make sure you wear eye protection, long pants and sleeves, rubber gloves, and tall rubber boots if wading in wet concrete. If clothes become saturated with wet cement, remove, rinse off skin, and change into clean clothes
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IN THE MIX

Cement, water and aggregates make up concrete. Cement powder and water form a paste. This paste bonds the aggregates together. It’s usually comes in strengths of 20, 25, 32, 40 and 50 MPa. Standard concrete has a slump of 80mm and aggregate sizes of 10mm or 20mm.

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STEP 1

Level formwork
Cut a 290 x 45mm to length (or splice it with a cleat) for one side and nail it to a corner stake. Level the 290 x 45mm using a spirit level, water level or dumpy level. Then nail it to the second corner stake.

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STEP 2

Peg and straighten formwork
Stretch a stringline just above the top edge of the formwork. Align the formwork with the string and brace it with pairs of 90 x 45mm spaced every 600mm. To absorb the shock and make nailing easier, hold a sledgehammer behind the pegs and formwork as you nail.

 

 

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